How much handlebar drop

On the road, elite riders normally have a significant drop, where their bars sit below the saddle. This is typically done to provide a more aerodynamic position. Recreational riders are usually best served by a handlebar that is in line with the saddle or above it. This usually gives a very comfortable position. The guide below applies to modern threadless style stems and headsets. Generally, most bikes have 20 to 30mm of headset spacers that can be moved freely above or below the stem.

All bolts in the stem are standard-threaded i. This is a good time to add a little fresh grease to the top cap bolt, which can easily become seized in place.

This is what the top cap and bolt look like when undone. These pieces thread into an item called a star nut. On a carbon bike, an expanding wedge called a bung is usually used. You do not need to remove either of these. Slide the stem back onto the steerer tube and replace the spacers you just removed into position above the stem. Now replace that top cap and bolt, and tighten until you feel some resistance.

This top cap bolt is used to pre-load the headset bearings. Next, align the stem with the front wheel, so the bar is at a right angle with the wheel. This may take some patience — it helps to straddle yourself over the top tube of the bike. This is often around 5 to 8Nm. Elements of one style can be worked into another precisely because there is more than one perfect fit for everyone.

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Location Narfuk. Then there's the "unfit" - almost upright because one cannot squeeze all of ones gut out of the way This used to be my preferred only option style - but after much perseverance am no longer limited by a large gut - now I'm only limited by the fact that I cannot put any weight on my gammy shoulders I cycled on my Tiagra equipped CB for over a year before recognising this position as a possibility.

SpokeyDokey 65 as near as makes no difference. Newbie after long lapse - 56 yrs old; fairly fit although not bike fit. Just measured mine at 6. I like mine exactly how it is.

On the bars is nice and 'pootley' and on the hoods feels stretched out enough for me. I have tried the drops a couple of times but tbh I wondered of what use they are to me apart from peddling into a strong headwind. I probably would've been just as happy with some straight bars and some bar ends.

If your bike feels good to you then that's all that matters - leave the mega-drops and stretched out TT's to the 6' something 10 stone whippets who can contort like a pipe cleaner. Cyclist33 Guest. Location Warrington. Whatever works for the individual.

Thanks for all the responses. My bike is definitely more of the "eddy fit", feels comfortable, not too aggressive but aggressive enough in the drops.

If it's not broken don't fix it I guess? You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.

Accept Learn more…. Top Bottom. Saddle, handlebars, stem and speedplay pedals. If you find yourself unable to achieve a comfortable, neutral position on the bike during endurance rides or while climbing, this could be a sign your bars are too low. Having a slightly higher setup lets you enjoy the relaxed portions of races and rides but still uses the drops and your position to get low when you need to tuck in and save energy. While not a symptom, this condition is a reason to use less bar drop.

More and more riders are diagnosed with iliac artery kinking after years of riding hard in a closed hip position. It is also possible long-term riding in a closed hip position could contribute to iliac artery kinking.

A goal of 45 degrees of maximum hip flexion is suggested to reduce the chances of this condition. With the popularity of gravel , bike packing and adventure riding, it makes sense more cyclists would benefit from riding in more relaxed positions. If you are finding yourself doing more long adventure rides that take you off pavement, then it is time to relax that extreme position so you can be in the saddle for extended periods on bumpy terrain that can get very steep and technical.

Remember there is always the option to get more aero with your position. Many factors can affect aerodynamics including your helmet, wheels and kit. It makes for intriguing pictures. RIDE magazine had a good number of pro level bikes with all the dimensions on them, and they all were in the range except for Oscar Pareiro, his was 13, but the majority were not really dropping that far.

Why are the best things in life always the ones you start last? Post by Tinea Pedis on Sun Dec 06, pm I've made a point of looking at the pro's bikes at the races I've been to this year or in any pic's I look at, and would agree that as the bikes increase in size so does the riders drop. I went from a bike with a The drop certainly increased it's around the cm mark but at the same time my comfort levels did too.

Post by SaecoReplica on Mon Dec 07, am fogman wrote: Is there a general rule of thumb for saddle to handlebar drop? Post by coloclimber on Mon Dec 07, am Get a frame that fits and you wont have to worry about how much drop.

The stem will sit close to the TT without spacers or jacked stem. Of course most have a very decent drop but I have noticed even some taller riders don't have a massive drop. Taylor Phinney is cm over 6'4" only runs 87 mm drop but a truckload of setback. In a nutshell, there might be guidelines but one needs to work out what works for them. However, I agree with Satrnut that the more upright position whether drop or reach or both is not necessarily the most comfortable.

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